Esxence Report 2024

Xavier Blaizot (CEO and perfumer) headed a team of perfumers and project managers who visited Esxence, the niche perfume exhibition in Milan. Each year the team has a clear mandate to visit clients and explore the show to identify new trends in this market. At PCW we take a keen interest in olfactive developments, packaging and design elements, in addition to brand positioning for new entrants to the market.

Although based in Milan, Esxence is undoubtedly a global affair. More than 365 fragrance brands and 15,000 visitors gather from all over the world to meet, smell perfume and identify business opportunities. Fragrance brands are the main exhibitors at Esxence, although there are other entities including Osmothèque, Nez and Le Parfum. Buyers, retailers, distributors, press and the wider fragrance industry also atttend. There is also an interesting selection of workshops and presentations on a breadth of topics scheduled at the show but unfortunately we do not have the time to attend these.

This year everyone in the team agreed that Esxence was bigger and busier than ever. If you’ve been to Esxence many times, it has been a really fascinating journey to see the show evolve from humble beginnings to the huge presence it has today. Considered a microcosm of the industry as a whole, you can clearly see that the proliferation of brands at Esxence mirrors the wider market and the burgeoning interest in this sector.

In terms of olfactive trends, there was a diverse range of offers at Esxence including many fruity (peach, apple, passionfruit, fig) fragrances with a gourmand flourish, lactonic scents, marine fragrances, some new incense launches and beautiful florals. One thing we can say with certainty is that there is no chance that the gourmand trend is fading away, although it can be conveyed in diverse ways via nuts or milky facets for example. The trend to refillable containers was still very much in evidence.

Marketing plays a more important role in the show than previous years. With the surge in the number of brands at the show, there is an increased necessity to stand out from the crowd, so more attention is given to the actual stand itself and how the perfumes are displayed. Whereas last year Fugazzi really captured the show with its aeroplane interior, this year they had some competition. House of Oud had a casino themed stand with a poker table and juxebox while Fugazzi opted for a swimming pool aesthetic with blue tiling that was incredibly eye catching. The stands were also larger in general to give brands more space and also to create a more luxurious, comfortable aesthetic.

Kajal issued an oversized brightly hued tote bag in different colours to visitors and was seen all over the show. It was so big that people were putting their other goodie bags inside Kajal’s. A clear marketing win.

Amelia Garossi, Maud Chabanis, Xavier Blaizot, Alexandre Zini, Marion Deshayes

One trend that has been in evidence for a long time but has come to a peak, is that once upon a time visiting press was limited to television, magazines, fragrance websites and bloggers. The significant transition from written to video content has culminated in a huge proliferation of You Tube, Instagram and now TikTok creators in attendance.

The show has also unofficially spread to other locations in a similar fashion to the TFWA in Cannes. The NH hotel situated in close proximity to the convention centre is one such venue, with fragrance brands on show near the lobby, while many more brands are holding meetings in the more relaxed environment of their hotel suites.

We will be back next year and undoubtedly there will be many more exciting developments. There was a palpable buzz in the air and on the last day when the general public attends, there was an enormous queue to gain admission. Thank you to all of our clients that we met, and a warm welcome to the new encounters that were made along the way.

“It is simply a pleasure to attend Esxence and we hope to return time and time again. We always leave Milan feeling incrediblty inspired by the world of creative perfumery. Long may this event and niche fragrance continue to develop in a positive direction.”

Xavier Blaizot