Esxence 2025 Report

Exploring Esxence 2025: Trends and Creativity

Xavier Blaizot (CEO & perfumer) led our team of perfumers and project managers to Esxence, the niche fragrance exhibition held annually in Milan. This year’s theme, Master of Dreams, set the stage for a showcase of creativity and innovation. Every year, PCW attends with a clear mission: to connect with clients, explore new trends, and gain insight into the evolving market landscape. Beyond olfactive developments, we closely follow advances in packaging, design, and brand positioning for emerging players.

This year, Esxence felt bigger than ever, with nearly 500 fragrance brands and visitors from across the globe. The event remains a melting pot of cultures and creativity, drawing both seasoned attendees and first-time exhibitors. Notably, 2025 marked the first year Esxence became a ticketed event, with an entrance fee. Alongside brands, other industry players such as Nez, Le Parfum and Osmothèque also had a presence, adding depth to the exhibition. Workshops and conferences also feature but unfortunately we can’t devote any time to these, even though the topics are of interest.

So, what caught our eye this year? If 2024 hinted at marketing’s growing influence, 2025 confirmed its dominance. Some stands resembled pop-up experiences, while others mirrored luxurious department store counters—elevated, immersive, and brilliantly lit, suggesting that brands are really focusing energy here to engage retailers.

Memorable brand activations included:

Fugazzi, already known for bold creative direction, outdid itself with a fruit and vegetable market stall and a fragrance sample vending machine—both stealing the spotlight

Born To Stand Out, fresh off their L’Oréal investment, made a statement with a minimalist yet striking red booth. Their oversized red tote bag became the unofficial must-have of Esxence, dwarfing all others.

The Dupe Show sparked interest as the concept is now in the lexicon of consumer understanding and remains a hot topic. Their Rock & Roll approach proved refreshing and showed that a large investment was not necessary to stand out.

Are these activations clever marketing or gimmicks? Either way, they worked. In an exhibition with hundreds of brands, standing out is key.

Beyond marketing, storytelling around scent composition and ingredient sourcing emerged as a trend. Several brands showcased innovative extraction techniques, emphasising craftsmanship and authenticity.

Fragrance trends :

🍑 Fruity notes—especially passionfruit, guava, mango and peach—are making a strong transition from personal care into high-end artistic perfumery, often blended with woods and ouds.

🥛 Milky, coffee and nutty scents were also prominent this year.

🍭 Gourmands as ever are strongly represented with new takes on sweet scent profiles.

💧 Non-alcoholic fragrance formulations are an interesting but still very niche concept. Brands like Sabe Masson and Versatile are early adopters, but most fragrance houses have yet to make the leap.

Another major shift? The explosion of content creators at Esxence. This year saw even more TikTokers, YouTubers, and Instagram influencers from around the world. The rise of video content continues to fuel excitement and education in perfumery, helping to drive industry growth.

As we look ahead to next year’s edition—set for June 2026 with a more summery vibe—we want to extend a huge thank you to our clients and everyone who made Esxence such a memorable experience. Until next time!

“We prioritise Esxence as a prime opportunity to connect with emerging brands and stay up to date with the niche and artistic fragrance market. By analysing trends first-hand, we equip our clients with the latest insights, so they can make the best decisions for their brand.”

Xavier Blaizot